Falling with the Grigri was never fun for me. What Its Like To Write A Climbers Obituary, The Six Most Boneheaded, Dangerous, Irresponsible Climbers Weve Heard Of (So Far), A Series Of Unfortunate EventsA Fortunate Groundfall Landing, Yet Another Crazy Dangerous Story: Dad Could Have Killed Mom. Laughed out loud, and embarrassed myself at work. When the auction ended, it had instead gone for $1,400after receiving 100 bids. But in the end it was a necessary financial decision to discontinue it. Rock Climbing Tahoe | On his way back to the Reno Airport, he stopped in a gear shop in Tahoe and spent a lot of dollars. Thats when he ended up with a Silent Partner self-belay device. dynamic rope and two symetrical shaped locking This freedom allows you to go climbing Thanks for the heads up. Rock Exotica handled the manufacturing until Wren Industries took over production in the late 90s. All rights reserved. At that rate, you could pay someone to belay you for about 137 hours for the price of one Silent Partner. Something went wrong. instructions and tips and don't forget Rock Climbing Tuolumne | I never used one. Probably the same reason all the major climbing companies don't have portaledges. Pete Whittaker rope-soloed El Capitan in a day in 2016, Related:Watch Fabian Buhl Rope Solo the First Ascent of, More than 100 Climbers Summited Mt. It feeds hands free. This device will not keep you safe! Any interest? The recently released Wild Country Revo uses similar technology, though Wild Country did not design it for nor do they recommend using it for self-belays. SILENT PARTNER - END OF free and aid routes and without a chest This is from my understanding so it may be off. Rope soloing is not something you do because youve not got a partner for this weekend, just as sailing around the world by yourself is not because no one wanted to come, it is about mastery, which includes knowing you could get killed doing it. And since the market for solo climbing is so small, its not worth manufacturing it anymore. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts, https://www.rockexotica.com/media/wysiwyg/rockexotica/tn/silent-partner-tech-notice.pdf. In any other sport, such as road cycling, gear as specialist as whats on offer to climbers, would be ten or twenty times more expensive. But, you never know, Get the latest climbing news, videos, tips, and more every Thursday. properties of the clove hitch knot supercharged gives you a more efficient, more natural top rope problem. SPECS: Weight: 14.9 oz (422 gm) Height: 6.75 (17 cm) Width: 2.9 (7.3 cm) Depth: 2.8 (7 cm) Rope Size: 9.8-11 mm, We respect your privacy and we won't share your information. He explained the advantages of the device to Climbing: I think they are so useful due to the fact that they are self-feeding and feed rope smoothly, so they are much easier to use whilst free climbing, says Whittaker. on your own schedule and not be limited A great place to start is to watch the videos on Yan Camus YouTube channel, as he talks a lot about rope soloing devices and rope soloing tech, and covers a lot of the problems in a way thats easy to understand (upside downfalls for example). Topos | Guidebooks | Route Everest Yesterday. I knew that I had something valuable when I was immediately offered $300 to end the auction, he says. includes discounted products from Rockfax. hello, I am looking for a rock exotica silent partner. Upvoted for the ELIB acronym alone! under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International license. Amamos lo que hacemos y nos encanta poder seguir construyendo y emprendiendo sueos junto a ustedes brindndoles nuestra experiencia de ms de 20 aos siendo pioneros en el desarrollo de estos canales! The SP was designed from the ground up as a rope soloing belay device, which means it was both overbuilt, so very strong, and designed to have the highest degree of catch in any and all types of falls (sideways, upside down, the ropes set incorrectly). Points: 5, Latest Fast-forward some 20 years later: Botts has only climbed a couple times since, and so decided it was time to let someone else make use of the gear.. . I get a lot of questions about the Wild Country Revo, which I suspect came about due to Pete Whittakers use of the Silent Partner, and although Ive never used it, my spider senses tell me to avoid it, mainly due to its construction, and that, unlike a cam, youre not really sure what strength criteria was built into the device, and so going out of bounds of normal use might be more dangerous than with standard meat and two veg device (or two slabs all alloy and a steel cam). a rapidly moving rope and "catch" a fall. The SILENT PARTNER capitalizes on the frictional Petzl, and all manufacturers, have to remain with a very strict legal boundary in terms of their equipment being used improperly, modified or any anyway misused because when you do this, people can and do die. Stickers. $75 for 24 months. Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more. Sign up for Outside+ today. to Descenders & Solo Belay. Climb at your own risk. Minimum purchase required. id gladly sell it for 570 though, There is a unused one up on eBay in Australia now. Photos | Articles Essentially, they are made for the job you will be doing, and they do that job well and make you feel safe. One style of rapid-link worth looking at is the 8mm twisted rapid link, as this allows the device to sit flat against the body, so it catches less. You also only have one connection point, which has led to at least one failure (Tom Randall - yes that Tom Randall - took a huge whipper rope soloing and broke the HMS krab connecting him to the GriGri, but was saved by his back-up knot). Refresh your browser window to try again. But for roped soloing with any other device having no back-up is suicidal, as a failure for the device to lock would see you just zip off the rope to your death. I never learned to trust in it. You must understand how it works and its limitations, and how it functions with different rope diameters. Pete Whittaker rope-soloed El Capitan in a day in 2016, free-climbing the 2,800-foot Free Rider (VI 5.13a) using a Silent Partner. attachment to your harness. And I thought the $250 i sold mine for was good i feel lucky i got mine for 200 on mountainproject. They are really rare! the rest of the day. The GriGri has been used very effectively by many climbers, often doing very impressive things, including Keita Kurakamis free roped solo of the Nose and on one-day speed ascents of El Cap and many solos. Rock Climbing Red Rocks | and your SILENT PARTNER will lock on the When I bought my SIlent Partner it seemed like a very expensive piece of gear, but really it was almost a one of a kind, and it allowed me to repeatedly experience adventures money could not buy, and now its potentially worth ten times what I paid for it! cheers. But although a few people want it very much and theres no real substitute for it, the few is probably not enough to justify it. - eBay Money Back Guarantee - opens in a new window or tab. carabiners - like the PIRATES below - for The item you've selected was not added to your cart. "laps" on a favorite pitch or Incluyen medios de pago, pago con tarjeta de crdito, telemetra. The Silent Partner has been around for quite some time. Youtube, The death of the Silent Partner & alternatives, Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International license. Rock Climbing Southwest | There are many devices that CAN be used to rope solo, but this is one of the few that was designed TO be used as a rope solo device. {"modules":["unloadOptimization","bandwidthDetection"],"unloadOptimization":{"browsers":{"Firefox":true,"Chrome":true}},"bandwidthDetection":{"url":"https://ir.ebaystatic.com/cr/v/c1/thirtysevens.jpg","maxViews":4,"imgSize":37,"expiry":300000,"timeout":250}}. The company no longer sells them does anyone know anywhere or anyone that is selling one? The company grew and that growth is a two-sided coin. You must have realistic expectations of how well such a device will cooperate with your ambition. Rock Climbing Sierra At the moment you can buy two on Ebay but this guise doesnt like to send them to Germany. Got feedback? While in production, the Silent Partner retailed for $275. Undertaking highly complex techniques, high off the ground, without really knowing what youre doing is neither fun nor the pathway to old age. When Botts listed his Silent Partner on eBay, he thought it might sell for $150. Exactly. The Rock Exotica Silent Partner self-belay device, which was recently discontinued. Thats why they are popular.. It basically works like a clove hitch on a pulley wheel from what I understand, slowly pulling the rope in one direction will feed the rope through but when it is jerked it cinches the clove hitch to "grab" the rope. Nuevos Medios de Pago, Ms Flujos de Caja. rope. For a long time Ive had in my SolidWorks files a design for a new solo device. Can someone do ELIB (explain like i'm a boulderer) please? If the Silent Partner had cost the same as an iPhone 10, which is made in the millions, then it would still be manufactured, and could well have been worth the cost to those 100 customers a year. Those were very fun times and the Silent Partner was a great product. Move slowly - rope feeds free, take a dive Disponibles con pantallas touch, banda transportadora, brazo mecanico. The rope is tied around a drum via a clove hitch. eBay listings since June have sold for between $350 and $650, with the price creeping higher over time. But it seems the rope feeding is much easier. I am thinking I would take $250 for it. training tool for those wanting to do repeated View cart for details. My first question: are they really better for rope soloing than the Grigri 1. The Silent Partner feeds automatically while you climb and its speed sensitive locking mechanism will catch even head-first falls. Climbing is dangerous. It also tried to design out problems such as cross-loading, which could result in a device that locked, but a locker that broke; doing this by having a two karabiner clip-in point, which also locked the plates together (it was impossible for the rope to escape from the device). [5 of 5], A Winter Traverse of the California section of the PCT Part 8, Balch Fest 2013. This fact demonstrates again that the device is only part of a system, a system that you must understand is very close to free soloing in reality, in that fall should not be part of the game, so as not to test the system, but staying on the rock! If you have not put in hundreds of hours using a GriGri you should not be trying to rope soling with it. Maybe they dont like this grumpy germans! There is very little effort needed on the part of the climber to get the rope to feed compared to other safe alternatives. You can rope solo literally with a clove hitch and a locker on your belay loop with the same concept only you manually feed the rope through the clove hitch on the locker where the silent partner does it for you, when you fall it's the same concept both ways. But luckily I did not check my email for a couple of days or I might have jumped at the offer.. And yes we are scared of falling. Also, it can perform cheap dental work if you set up a little weirdly. Those 45 bids are probably around 10% of the entire potential market worldwide. No, it just means: Just as no one looks at a Swiss watch and imagines it functions because of a single cog, safe rope soloing is undertaken using many different pieces, from belay set up, ropes, knots, rope bags, connectors, back-up systems, no one part more or less important as the whole. The problem with the GriGri is that lacks what makes the SP so good, in that its not 100% reliable in all fall vectors (sideways, upside down), and even if the cam was to lock there are many other things that can fuck you up (handle depressed by a sling or your body, fifi hook jammed in the mechanism). Note that solo climbing is for experts only and requires special skills and acceptance of considerable risk and total responsibility. Get full access to Outside Learn, our online education hub featuring in-depth fitness, nutrition, and adventure courses and more than 2,000 instructional videos when you sign up for Outside+ There just isn't a big enough market to make it worth while. Inlcuyen medios depago, pago con tarjeta de credito y telemetria. I participated in that bid! You must understand the effect of twisting and levering and cross-loading forces on the device and its connectors. Posts in all Forums, www.climbing.com/.amp/news/rock-exotica-silent-partner-sells-for-1400-on-ebay/, https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116382395/fs-rock-exotica-silent-partner-rope-solo-self-belay-device, Free This means the only place to get an SP is eBay. It doesn't care if you're falling upside down. Having used my SP for nearly twenty years, and have taken significant falls on it (including 100+ foot), and done both aid and free, when you put all the aspects of the device together, then it was the best device on the market. Who knows? I understand it's used for soloing but can you explain what makes it better than alternative devices. Bottss sale was an anomaly, going for more than double any previous auction. Climbing Alaska. We make big quantities of those products and they are what pay the bills, whereas the Silent Partner sales were down to around 100 a year. Does this mean the GriGri is out? I have read lots of your books. Nuestras mquinas expendedoras inteligentes completamente personalizadas por dentro y por fuera para su negocio y lnea de productos nicos. Put finger tape on the collar of the rapid-link to make it easier to tighten (having a small alloy spinner, multi-tool or second rapid-link to act as spanner for undoing the rapid link is handy, but dont tighten it with a spanner when leading, as it should be removable with your fingers). for Silent Partner, JET Im sure there are people and small companies seeing the continuing demand for the Silent Partner who are wondering if they could make something like it. Im a climber from Germany doing a lot of rope soloing as well. The Silent Partner's only use is for solo climbing. Rock Climbing Zion | Other things work, this is one of the only things ever actually designed specifically as a rope solo device. This means climbing really easy routes, to begin with, lots of them, then easy multi-pitch routes, learning as you go (how big does the loop need to be between you and the back-up knot, what rope moves best through the device etc). Manual Messages 1 - 20 of total 24 in this topic, Yosemite Valley, California USA, Apr 30, 2019, Yosemite Valley, California USA, Apr 18, 2019, Yosemite Valley, California USA, Apr 17, 2019, Yosemite Valley, California USA, Mar 31, 2019, https://patents.google.com/patent/US4941548A/en?oq=US4941548A, The Kohala Ditch Trail: 36ish hrs on foot to and from the headwaters. The Silent Partner's only use is for solo climbing. The home of Climbing on reddit. Related:ZodiacDavid Allfrey Recounts His Aid Solo Speed Record on El Cap. While the device is big among rope soloists, the practice is niche and Rock Exotica has halted production of the device, leading to a surge in demand. When I checked ebay.co.uk for 'silent partner' it just brings up sex toys :(. In the earlier days of Rock Exotica I worked on products that were interesting to me without much regard to the financial side of things. Hi This is probably my number one question, so Ill try and answer it in a way thatll hopefully make sense to others: Is the Silent Partner better? We cannot, however, teach you to solo climb over the phone. This is not intended as an instructional piece (check out the rope soloing articles on this site, or my book on the subject), but I need to stress the use of the correct connector, as this is the weak link in the system. just looked at eBay, and these things seem to be going for a lot more. to bouldering, biking or taking a hike for This story has been updated with a statement from Rock Exotica founder Rock Thompson. To fixate on say the Silent Partner, and pay $1400 on one, may indicate that someone views the device as the linch-pin when really youre the pin, and before embarking on some rope soloing escapade, you need to have tried and learned all techniques and all devices you can. Id really like to make it. You dont have to modify them (unlike some devices). The Official Trip Report, Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 13, 2018 - 07:53am PT, Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2018 - 09:35am PT, Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2018 - 09:50am PT.
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